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- <text id=93TT2189>
- <title>
- Sep. 06, 1993: The Last Safe Place
- </title>
- <history>
- TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1993
- Sep. 06, 1993 Boom Time In The Rockies
- </history>
- <article>
- <source>Time Magazine</source>
- <hdr>
- COVER STORY, Page 27
- The Last Safe Place
- </hdr>
- <body>
- <p>A longtime resident of Montana ponders the invasion of the Rockies,
- what it means for his state and what it says about America
- </p>
- <p>By WILLIAM KITTREDGE
- </p>
- <p> William Kittredge, a short-story writer, lives in Missoula,
- Montana. His latest book is Hole in the Sky, published by Knopf
- in 1992.
- </p>
- <p> Here in the Montana Rockies lately we've all got celebrity stories.
- Say you're sitting in a restaurant in Bozeman. A guy at the
- next table is going on about Bob said this, and Bob did that.
- You can legitimately wonder if he's talking about Redford.
- </p>
- <p> If he's talking about Ted and Jane, you don't have to wonder.
- And it's not just the well-to-do. Seems like everybody is coming.
- We had our hundred years of solitude, and now the West is turning
- itself into a make-believe place where celebrities and tourists
- and retirees can roam and find homes. Beverly Hills in the highlands.
- </p>
- <p> Look down the two-lane highway, past the beauties of the Sawtooth
- Mountains and the swales along the Salmon River, over Lost Trail
- Pass into the Bitterroot Valley, across the Clark Fork of the
- Columbia and past the Mission Mountains and Flathead Lake and
- Glacier Park to the blue Canadian Rockies. It's all sort of
- glorious. And it's a bumper-to-bumper raceway--Jeeps and Winnebagos
- and Harleys, Californians and Canadians, illicit drug vendors
- on holiday, fly-fishing nuts who saw A River Runs Through It.
- Who knows? Some of them are tourists, but many are coming to
- stay. They've sold a house in some suburb; they're bringing
- what money they've got; and they're intent on buying in, souls
- on the run.
- </p>
- <p> Outside Sun Valley I saw a vast house being built to enclose
- an old weathered barn. I mean, the whole barn was going to end
- up inside the living room. You could think of it as decor, a
- way of incorporating actuality into the dream.
- </p>
- <p> In July, on a flight out of Kalispell, I sat beside a big man
- in his 50s, a native with a bad limp earned playing football
- for the Montana State Bobcats and riding in rodeos. He was moving
- to deepest Wyoming. "There's nobody around here anymore but
- a bunch of golf-course Canadians," he said.
- </p>
- <p> Many locals, the ones not selling real estate, are equally unhappy.
- Most of them like the money siphoning into the local economy
- but feel they're being invaded.
- </p>
- <p> Imagine it. You've spent your life in a town by the river where
- the cottonwood leaves flash in the evening breeze. You can do
- a little fly-fishing at night after work or go for a run on
- a trail in the wilderness. You hate seeing your paradise overrun
- by latecomers from some seaport. "I guess it's a trade," one
- fellow told me. "We want the money, we got to put up with the
- ninnies."
- </p>
- <p> We can't afford to live here anymore, people say, not with the
- taxes. There are plenty of horror stories. Farmers near Kalispell
- can't afford to go on farming, and just 20 miles down the road
- at Eagle Bend, outlanders are paying several hundred thousand
- for a condo on the golf course.
- </p>
- <p> Many old-time Montana people feel they are fighting for their
- lives. They've generated a taxpayers' revolt.
- </p>
- <p> A lot of newcomers are eager to join. Many are coming to the
- Rockies to retire. Their children are long out of school. They're
- on fixed incomes and resist supporting education. But these
- good folks don't seem to give a damn about the welfare of our
- next generation. They want to buy into our functioning culture
- on the cheap.
- </p>
- <p> And they are. The Rockies have always been a resource colony.
- And now our traditional economy, based on logging, mining and
- agriculture, is troubled. Environmentalists are battling to
- save our forests and toughen up our mining laws. The Federal
- Government has more than doubled grazing fees for ranchers.
- All of which, if you value the integrity of the natural world,
- is a good thing.
- </p>
- <p> But a lot of locals, former loggers and miners and such, are
- likely to end up in the servant business, employed as motel
- clerks and hunting guides, and they know it. It's not hard to
- figure why many people in the Rockies hate this wave of outlanders
- with such passion.
- </p>
- <p> What's drawing these crowds? It's not so much, I think, the
- beauties of nature, or cheap land, as it is safety. Sanctuary.
- </p>
- <p> As we know, our old America fantasy--a New World and social
- justice all around--has gone seriously defunct. Millions of
- citizens in our cities quite justifiably count themselves disfranchised.
- Some are angry, armed and dangerous.
- </p>
- <p> So much fear is shredding the web of affection and responsibility
- that is at the heart of any good society. Many people are dropping
- everything, leaving the cities, running.
- </p>
- <p> Is this the old dream--America the beautiful, and I want my
- share? Yeah, except it may be more accurate to say that this
- is all that's left of the dream--a hideout in the Rockies,
- the last safe place. And afterward, in a couple more generations,
- where will we go then?
- </p>
-
- </body>
- </article>
- </text>
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